Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#1 » Sep 25 2017 08:39

I found a product called bluestuff. It's a thermoplastic used for making moulds. I bought it off eBay. It's been helping me mass produce CIBs for my 6 crisis. I need to make 16 CIBs and I have only one CiB (17 total needed). I made 3 moulds in about 3 minutes each. So been cranking out about 3 CIBs every 3-4 hours. They need to be filed down still. Here are my results so far. (Note:I am a complete amateur modeler with no previous experience starting Warhammer a few days shy of two months ago.)

https://imgur.com/gallery/XPCnw
(May edit this post later once I figure out how to post it as a pictures on here)

Edit(thank you panzer):
Image

Index: [Top to bottom]
1.original CIB(1)
2.Sloppy 1st try/liquid greenstuff+greenstuff experiment(1)
3.CIBs fresh from the mould(3)
4.Slightly cleaned up CIBS (6)
5.Blue stuff moulds (6 pc around the CIBs)
Last edited by Lostroninsoul on Sep 25 2017 10:48, edited 5 times in total.

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Panzer
Shas'Saal
Posts: 3063

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#2 » Sep 25 2017 09:01

It looks like you are too impatient. You should let the Greenstuff harden properly.

Also if you take the direct link to the picture (usually ending on .png or .jpg) you can link it here properly with the img tags. ;)

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#3 » Sep 25 2017 09:43

Thanks for both tips. How long should I let the green stuff harden? I thought it takes about an hour before your unable to sculpt it further. I am probably not that patience and I probably could have created better moulds too but there is a first time for everything I guess.

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red'gue'vesa
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 37

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#4 » Sep 25 2017 03:07

I did some mold work about a year ago. I was using a similar thing to blue stuff except it was from Japan. I did a 50/50 mix of greenstuff and greystuff by Milliput. The mixture becomes more ridged and it more easily sanded. I wrapped a rubber band around my molds as well. As Panzer said, you have to take your time letting the putty cure. Also keep an eye on your molds, they can lose shape after a while.
Live by the law, die by the sword

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#5 » Sep 25 2017 03:14

Maybe a varnish or enamel coating might help keep the shape after filing/sanding for a longer period of time? How long would you recommend to waiting for a mould to fully cure?

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Kael'yn
Fio'Ui
Fio'Ui
Posts: 1081

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#6 » Sep 25 2017 04:51

red'gue'vesa wrote:I did some mold work about a year ago. I was using a similar thing to blue stuff except it was from Japan. I did a 50/50 mix of greenstuff and greystuff by Milliput. The mixture becomes more ridged and it more easily sanded. I wrapped a rubber band around my molds as well. As Panzer said, you have to take your time letting the putty cure. Also keep an eye on your molds, they can lose shape after a while.

Bluestuff is also known as "Oyumaru" or "Instamold".
+1 to Milliput and GS mix: milliput is hard enough to be sanded but can break under too much stress, so GS add some elasticity to it.
Generally, the curing time is smaller in warm conditions. But the longer you wait the better the cast is (mold is quite quick to harden in my Oyumaru experience, but Milliput+GS need at least 6 to 12 hours to avoid deformations)
To keep molds in shape and avoid them slipping when pressing each shell in shape, I use some LEGO bricks to create a rigid box around the mold stuff. Or you can found some plastic small boxes (like ice cube trays).

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Paulson
Shas'Ui
Shas'Ui
Posts: 42

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#7 » Sep 25 2017 06:20

Brownstuff will tend to keep sharper edges and better details than greenstuff, same material but slightly different formula so it tends to set up slightly harder. I know people who also use a combination of greenstuff/brownstuff and apoxie sculpt blended together (or miliput).

You'll likely need 4-6 hours before you can take it out of the press mold mold, you can speed that up by placing it under a lamp as the heat will help it cure faster but the press mold material also reacts to heat so it can cause the press mold to deform easier meaning you'll need to redo the press more more frequently.

If you are having difficulty with removing the greenstuff try adding a thin layer of Vasoline or KY gel to the mold before putting the greenstuff in which will helps prevent it from sticking. A number of the professional sculptors I know use KY on their sculpting tools to get very smooth surfaces and because it's water based it absorbs into the greenstuff as it cures so you won't have any oily or greasy residue that you need to clean off with soap, in a worst case situation you just rinse it off with water. You only need a tiny amount as it goes a really long way.

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#8 » Sep 26 2017 04:57

OK there was a big differenence letting the molds sit all day. Thanks for all the tips

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#9 » Sep 27 2017 09:52

That's as much effort as I want to put into them with shaping. Now I have to magnetize them
Image

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Gragagrogog
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 379

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#10 » Sep 28 2017 01:12

You seem to have a lot of bubbles(unfilled spaces) there, this could be reduced by splitting the green stuff into little balls, let's say 2mm large, and pushing them into the mould individually, though doing this with bare hands might create a problem with it not sticking to itself, as your fingers will leave a bit of greasy residue on the surface, not sure if this would cause any real problems or not, but if so, gloves, or roughing up the surface with tweezers/needle before placing the next ball will help.

That and it would be better to make a separate mould for the "2 rotating barrel" bit. (Yea, I know this probably isn't new idea for you...)

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#11 » Sep 28 2017 05:45

Seems like good ideas if [when]I want to attempt to make prettier molds in the future. For now this will hold me over as I work on other projects that get my army up and running. Your tips are awesome. Wetting my fingers in s cup of water has greatly reduced greenstuff stickiness problems, fyi.

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Lostroninsoul
Shas'Saal
Posts: 96

Re: Greenstuff + bluestuff= lots of CIBs

Post#12 » Oct 10 2017 12:13

My next goal is to have a storm surge magnetised. I want to swap out the big cannon easy. I stupidly glued the base part of the cannon together with one of the two options(pulse driver cannon). I didn't read ahead. By the time I released the mistake, the glue was too dry to intervene. I plan to make a two part mould of the bit regardless.

Today, I'll experiment with liquid green stuff in cloning the base of a stormsurge's cannon base. Here is my plan
1.ill drill a hole into the base of the weapon to magnetize the orignal later. With will be captured onto the mould making it easier to line up the magnets in step 4 of my plan.
2. I plan to use blue stuff to capture the base of the cannon into a two part mould
3.Then I'll try experimenting with liquid greenstuff paint coating the mould and leaving it out to dry for a few days Last time, I tried to cast with liquid green my results were awful because I was too hasty. This time Ill try something different, I'll try more to be more patient. I want to use liquid green stuff to capture the details better without flash. I will coat the inside or the mold thinly with it to prevent the green stuff from forming a seal that keeps it from drying.
4. Ill also try to place a magnet into position so no drilling will be required later in the base part copy
5. I may related liquid greenstuff if the liquid GS layer is to thin. I will line the cannon option 2 (pulse blaster cannon)and fill with regular green stuff so it should fit snuggly.

I'll start in a about 6 hours or so. Does this experiment sound reasonable enough for a trial run? If you see something critical that can cause issues let me know :).. I'll post my results as well

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