Salutations again, Esteemed Community!
As promised, here is the tutorial on how I refreshed the previous crisis suit. I decided to convert the squad leader so that he would match the previous squad. So, to recap the goals, (1) utilization of on-hand parts, (2) no freehand or plasticard conversions (i'm terrible at it), and (3) improve the crisis suit. So: things you need: 1 crisis suit, 2 stealth suits. Also, bear in mind that these were used crisis suits to begin with and were my first batch of painted models. Protip: this is easier on unpainted unassembled models. So, without further ado: here is the suit in its starting condition:
The first step is to dissassemble the suit: cut the head off, leaving the neck post in the body. Then, cut the arm pegs off at the body, then cut the legs off the hips, and cut the legs at the knee and at the ankles. Then, cut the feet off the base. Then, cut the hips from the body. more details about that momentarily.
For the waist cut, the goal is to keep as much detail as possible while extending the waist. So, cut upward from the base of the center torso piece, and then cut horizontally under the chest details, all the way around. The result should look like so:
Next, comes the part I did not get any pictures of. Grr. I think it has something to do with having my fingers glued together at that point. No lie, it happened. So, take the shield generator piece and trip the mount off the bottom of it. Then, glue it on the bottom portion of the torso to complete the hips. Then, shave the front of the pelvis flush, and select a stealth shoulder pad. For this model, I will take the plain one as I will use the two remaining epuletted pads for the knees. Trim the sides down so that it sits nicely on the front of the pelvis. Then, use greenstuff (or your approved method) to mount the top half on the bottom half. Make sure the little triangle on the front sits inside the gap of the new codpiece to break up the visual dimensions.
Next, comes the head. Cut the stealth suit head at the indicated place, right about shoulder level:
Then, cut off the antenna, and the front face. Again, these were used before they hit eBay, and I painted them in an...enthusiastic manner. Then, cut the front portion of the face off the crisis suit head. For this model it was a straight-down cut, I'm thinking a slight angle to the interior of the head might be beneficial for the next. But, for now, cut straight down. Make sure the cut is tiny, like so:
Then, glue them together. The face of the crisis suit goes on the front of the stealth suit head, make sure to leave a bit of those hard angles showing on the crisis suit face. Then, trim the knob off of one side of the stealth suit antenna, and glue it on the side of the head. It should look like so:
So, next we will do the arms. For this, you will need a pair of fusion blasters. In my case, I only have the back halves laying around. But, as this only needs the back half, that will work. Look closely at the fusion blaster's back half, and you will see three dimples and a small circle. The cut will be perpindicular to the circle, leaving the circle mostly-intact and the three dimples, plus the slanting buttstock intact. Here is a picture of the desired half, cut separately from the unnecessary portion.
Then, again I am missing pictures. Likely due to my super-gluing problems. You cut the arm at the elbow, leaving the gear-piece on the lower arm. Take the above-cut fusion-blaster piece and glue it onto the shoulder piece, so that the slope of the blaster piece slopes forward. This should form a shoulder and upper arm. Then, take the lower arm, trim to the desired angle and glue in place. At this point I glued the weapons on, but that part is optional. The important part, is to mount the arms back slightly up and back from the original peg location. If you visualize that blemish as a circle, I had the re-attached arms covering the right-top quadrant. So not much movement, just enough to push the chest out a bit and give the shoulders a bit more definition by pushing them a bit over the flat line of the top torso boundary.
The next portion is frustrating and time consuming. First, take the upper leg. Shave the ball joint up so that more upper leg exists prior to the hip joint. I lost this picture (I could have sworn I took it), but just cut a bit, up and over so that the full-circle of the hip ball becomes flattened at the base. the lower leg involves cutting a flamer to pieces. First, cut off the bottom portion of the barrel, the part with the dimples in it, at its natural boundary. Then, cut off the ammo tank (or whatever it is), then cut off the lighter line that runs under the barrel and terminates in a lighter. Then, cut off the knob on the far side flush, and the back of the body perpendicular to the mounting tab. Then, cut that area at a sloping angle that will determine the knee bend. If that is hard to visualize, here is a picture:
My pictures for the next part turned out garbage, so I feel less guilty deleting then I would putting them to use. Take the original bottom leg, and trim the hard angle off the back so the back and front form parallel angles. Then, glue it to the reversed barrel of the flamer. This forms the mounting point for the foot. Then, cut the tiny knob off the removed portion of the flamer barrel and put it back in its original spot on the now-back of the leg. Then, take two of the remaining stealth suit shoulder pads and put them on the lower legs over the cuts.
Finally, the feet. reverse them (little toe on outside, at an awkward angle). But, this awkward angle is ok, because cut that little toe off! Then, glue it to the back of the foot. Once that has firmed up, glue the foot to the original angle ball. Or stub, if yours broke like mine did. And then, glue the whole thing back on its base! Here are some final pics:
I hate the lighting on this one, but it shows the cuts rather well.
And here are the rest of the after pictures. It is worthwhile to note that this was performed with already-painted models, and the required touchup post-update is minimal. As I only have one completely painted army, that is a plus. Please let me know if you have any further questions, once I get the parts for the next suit, i will update the missing picture slots.