Help a fellow player decide!

General discussions about the hobby side to Tau & 40K.
PeeJ
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 77

Help a fellow player decide!

Post#1 » Jul 27 2017 06:14

So, a little background;

I have collected Tau since release, but never really fully committed to playing/modeling a full army. I've just painted various things I fancied doing from different armies on and off over the years (and also generated quite the untouched pile of shame). This edition however has me wanting to play, and more specifically wanting to play Tau.

I'm in the process of selling/trading my gigantic marine based pile of shame that are unpainted to concentrate purely on Tau, the only non-Tau I'll be keeping are a few Harlies and Deathwatch models, which I just want to paint because they are pretty.

I'm currently building everything Tau I own that still needs putting together (more pile of shame), with the plan to paint everything in a production line.

Now here comes the tricky part;

I'm considering stripping, re-painting and re-basing all of my currently finished Tau stuff (see below) and adding them to the production line to re-paint;

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Some of my motivations for a repaint are;

    The colours I used are discontinued
    I'm a considerably better painter now and use different methods (including airbrushing, blending and edge highlights)
    I'm unhappy with the basic style of basing I used
    Magnets!
    The way I have my pathfinder/drone set up will no longer work game wise
    I would like to use and established sept/colour scheme (gone are the days of wanting to avoid the box art)

However, I do need to consider as cons to this idea;

    The time that would be needed to strip/repaint these items
    Damage - Will my forgeworld broadsides resin hold up well to dettol/other paint strippers?
    What scheme will I go for? Colour wise I like Vior'la, Sa'cea and to a lesser extent, traditional Tau Ochre
    Should the upcoming Codex and possible Sept traits have much of an impact on my army?
    How much impact will Sept fluff have on my army?

Essentially I want an army that I love the look of, am proud of (painting/basing wise) and is fun to play (will sept traits force me down a play style I don't like?). Fluff might play some part in it too since I'm a big fluff bunny unfortunately :P.

For reference, this is what my more recent painting is like (I know it's not Tau, just the most recent thing I painted, apologies);

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At the moment I think I'm leaning towards going for the Blue-Grey/Orange Sa'cea colour scheme with urban tarmac/paving bases.

I'm feeling a bit of decision paralysis about this at the moment for some reason. I may just be looking for re-assurance, but I'd like some input from other people on what they think (my local friends haven't been much use, none of them play Tau or really know much about them).

Any input/discussion/opinions/suggestions appreciated.

Thanks in advance lovers xx

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Panzer
Shas'Saal
Posts: 3537

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#2 » Jul 27 2017 06:33

Okay first of all I give my usual first advice when it comes to T'au color schemes (I really should prepare a template for it :D ).
The armor color isn't what defines a Sept color scheme.
T'au change their armor color all the time depending on where they get deployed. Green for green-ish environments, grey-ish blue for suburban environments, brown-ish yellow for desert environments, etc.
What defines a Sept are the Sept/ranking markings. Aka the color of the stripes, antennae for Shas'Ui, helmets+shoulder guard for Shas'Vre, etc.
Farsight does that to some degree as well but they mostly ignore it and go with their dark red because their prefered form of battle is about using shock troops so they don't need to blend in that badly. Also the red has a meaning for them (to honor their fallen comrades).

Now that we have that out of the way we can get to the real stuff. Unless you are really interested in a Septs fluff it comes down to the rules you prefer for your army. And that's something we just don't know yet.
So unless you really really want to start re-painting your army as soon as possible my advice would be to wait a little bit until we know more about the upcoming Codex.

And to the stripping: I've made really good experience with simple bio-ethanol. You don't even have to let it soak that much. Just use an old toothbrush. It shouldn't attack the plastic either (I once forgot that I've got some models soaking there for days and they are still fine :D ).

PeeJ
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 77

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#3 » Jul 27 2017 06:44

Panzer wrote:Okay first of all I give my usual first advice when it comes to T'au color schemes (I really should prepare a template for it :D ).
The armor color isn't what defines a Sept color scheme.

.....

And to the stripping: I've made really good experience with simple bio-ethanol. You don't even have to let it soak that much. Just use an old toothbrush. It shouldn't attack the plastic either (I once forgot that I've got some models soaking there for days and they are still fine :D ).


Oh, I know all of that stuff, but on this project I just would like to pick a 'showcase' scheme and stick with it, if you know what I mean, rather than coming up with my own.

Bio-Ethanol you say... and where might one get that? I've only used nitro-mors, brake fluid and dettol in the past, and I've heard that dettol can do nasty things to resin.

As for timescales, I am getting a little itchy to get started ASAP. But it can wait until I've finished building my pile of shame I guess.

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Panzer
Shas'Saal
Posts: 3537

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#4 » Jul 27 2017 07:41

PeeJ wrote:
Panzer wrote:Okay first of all I give my usual first advice when it comes to T'au color schemes (I really should prepare a template for it :D ).
The armor color isn't what defines a Sept color scheme.

.....

And to the stripping: I've made really good experience with simple bio-ethanol. You don't even have to let it soak that much. Just use an old toothbrush. It shouldn't attack the plastic either (I once forgot that I've got some models soaking there for days and they are still fine :D ).


Oh, I know all of that stuff, but on this project I just would like to pick a 'showcase' scheme and stick with it, if you know what I mean, rather than coming up with my own.

Bio-Ethanol you say... and where might one get that? I've only used nitro-mors, brake fluid and dettol in the past, and I've heard that dettol can do nasty things to resin.

As for timescales, I am getting a little itchy to get started ASAP. But it can wait until I've finished building my pile of shame I guess.

Heh, don't know where you get it but I can get it in any bigger super market. It's commonly used as liquid grill lighter. ;)

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Juicy Fruit
Shas
Posts: 27

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#5 » Jul 27 2017 10:02

Your land raider is gorgeous! What colours did you use for the red engine cover and its highlight?
Primum conatus pessimi

PeeJ
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 77

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#6 » Jul 27 2017 12:54

Juicy Fruit wrote:Your land raider is gorgeous! What colours did you use for the red engine cover and its highlight?


Cheers man, off the top of my head I believe its Vallejo "Gory Red" with a couple of coats of "Nuln Oil" (shade), the highlight I believe is Vallejo "Bloody Red". GW equivalents would have been "Red Gore" (the old tech marine colour) and "Blood Red".

Should point out that Gory Red (and the GW equivalent) is a really odd consistency and not nice to work with IMO. It is very watery/transparent on the borderline of being a glaze, it will need a few coats to get a nice coverage.

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TauMan
Shas'Ui
Shas'Ui
Posts: 587
Contact:

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#7 » Jul 27 2017 04:49

Why is every talking about bio-ethanol or dettol? :( Really, the best stuff for stripping paint is Simple Green or Purple Power.

Both of these are:
  • Biodegradable
  • Water Soluble
  • Don't need ventilation
  • Don't need gloves

My preference is Simple Green as it is more powerful paint remover, and you need less to get the job done. Completely emerse models models overnight, and use and old tooth brush to remove paint. Made need to go back with a toothbrush to get paint out of crevasses and small holes. Works on plastic and metal, but I have no experience stripping paint from resin models. Be sure to risen off under water before re-priming.

So I found a link to Dakka Dakka discussion thread on stripping paint from FW resin models.
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/373342.page According to a couple of people posting in the thread they had no problems with stripping paint from resin models using Simple Green.

NOTE: the problem enamel primers. Simple Green won't remove enamel paint, but it isn't too thick a coat, you can paint over it like it was a fresh primer.

TauMan
Viro’los gu brath!
N.Y.A.B.X.T.T.

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Panzer
Shas'Saal
Posts: 3537

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#8 » Jul 27 2017 10:59

Actually I'm the only one who is talking about Bio-Ethanol and everyone else on the internet is talking about simple green. And the reason why I don't is because every product similar to simple green I've tried falls short to using simple bio-ethanol so I'll keep suggesting bio-ethanol until I find something better. ;)

PeeJ
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 77

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#9 » Jul 28 2017 03:53

TauMan wrote:Why is every talking about bio-ethanol or dettol? :( Really, the best stuff for stripping paint is Simple Green or Purple Power.

Both of these are:
  • Biodegradable
  • Water Soluble
  • Don't need ventilation
  • Don't need gloves

My preference is Simple Green as it is more powerful paint remover, and you need less to get the job done. Completely emerse models models overnight, and use and old tooth brush to remove paint. Made need to go back with a toothbrush to get paint out of crevasses and small holes. Works on plastic and metal, but I have no experience stripping paint from resin models. Be sure to risen off under water before re-priming.


Probably because in the UK Simple green is only really available online in 10litre bottles that cost nearly £100, and the process you just described is exactly the same as using bio-ethanol or dettol, which are ~£5 each.

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Yojimbob
Shas'Saal
Posts: 376

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#10 » Jul 28 2017 07:32

Here in the states I have used purple power and simple green to strip the top layers of paint but dot3 brake fluid has stripped ALL the paint including GW primer straight down to bare plastic. I could not remove primer off with either simple green or purple power.

PeeJ
Shas'La
Shas'La
Posts: 77

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#11 » Jul 28 2017 07:39

Yojimbob wrote:Here in the states I have used purple power and simple green to strip the top layers of paint but dot3 brake fluid has stripped ALL the paint including GW primer straight down to bare plastic. I could not remove primer off with either simple green or purple power.


I've stripped metals with brake fluid, was under the impression that plastics and resin didn't play well with brake fluid?

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Panzer
Shas'Saal
Posts: 3537

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#12 » Jul 28 2017 07:44

You definitely have to be careful with something like that. Most will damage the plastic.

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Yojimbob
Shas'Saal
Posts: 376

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#13 » Jul 28 2017 07:55

PeeJ wrote:
Yojimbob wrote:Here in the states I have used purple power and simple green to strip the top layers of paint but dot3 brake fluid has stripped ALL the paint including GW primer straight down to bare plastic. I could not remove primer off with either simple green or purple power.


I've stripped metals with brake fluid, was under the impression that plastics and resin didn't play well with brake fluid?


Resin I'm not sure about but it worked great on all my GW minis, metal and plastics. I was not careful by any stretch of the imagination. I intentionally soaked stuff for days to test and see how bad the plastic would get and it all turned out fine for me. It was just dot3 brake fluid from advance auto.

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El'mo
Shas'El
Shas'El
Posts: 1568

Re: Help a fellow player decide!

Post#14 » Jul 29 2017 09:26

The other problem with brake fluid is where to dispose of it.

Disposal in Europe tends to be heavily controlled and limited to recycling depots where they could charge and, if you are lucky, a friendly car workshop.

I manages to get my hands on some simple green at a reasonable price for my ultra sonic cleaner but before that I used Brennspiritus (ethyl alcohol) for plastics. I use acetone for metals (but use care as it is extremely hazardous) as it strips all the paint in minutes but melts plastics and resin.

After the initial soaking I find it a great help to use Jif cream to get the last bits of paint off.

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