Guide [Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)]

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UnderBheit
Shas
Posts: 5

Guide [Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)]

Post#1 » Jun 13 2009 08:59

Hi Everybody,

Some of you may know me from the Kompletely Kroot Forum.
For those of you who don't know me or the forum, please check it out and enjoy this modeling tutorial.

If you'd like to see some of my painted work, just follow this link to my blog.

Underbheit's Kroot Mercenaries


Tools:
-Hobby Knife
-Drill with bits
-Paper Clips
-Modeling Tools
-Clippers
-Pliers
-Green Stuff
-Super Glue
Image

-Kroot Parts:
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STEP 1: Clean off the flash.
(I can’t emphasize this enough. If you don’t clean off the mold lines your model will look bad even with a good conversion.)

-Just drag the edge of your hobby knife across your mold lines. The blade should be perpendicular to the mold line.
(Below I am dragging from the forehead to the spines. Always tilt the sharp edge away from the direction of motion)
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STEP 2: Legs
If you want your Kroot to appear to be in motion, then you have to adjust the legs.

-Use your clippers to cut the back of the forward leg.
-Cut an angle almost to the knee.
-Remove the excess plastic with your hobby knife.
-Smooth the rough edges of the incision as you did the mold lines.
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-Apply glue to the back of the knee and hold it in the bent position until it sets.
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-Adhere the legs to the Torso.
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STEP 3: Hands
This step will take practice. If you make a mistake just remember that’s why we have glue.

-The idea is to model a Kroot with free hands.
-Starting with these parts.
Image

-Cut the bulk of the weapons from the hands.
Image

-Using your smallest drill bit, tap a hole across the palm of the hand.
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-Then proceed to make the following incisions.
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-Try to remove small slivers at a time. It will look rough at first.
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-Smooth the edges with your hobby knife as you did with the mold lines. If this is not effective, then continue removing small slivers.
-Repeat these steps for the other hand.
-You will need to drill and pin the second hand to the wrist of the second arm.
-If this intersection is not perfect just add a strip of GS to the wristband.

STEP 4: Pinning Arms

-Try some test poses using Sticky Tack. (This can be found in any office supply store)
-Using your smallest drill bit, drill a hole down the arm, starting from the shoulder.
-Drill another hole in the torso.
-Insert and adhere a length of paper clip.
-Using Pliers, cut the paper clip to a length that will fit the hole in the arm and adhere.
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STEP 5: Modeling Features with Green Stuff (GS)
Note: You must repeatedly wet GS or it will be too sticky and unruly to model.
Armpits:
-Roll a ball of GS about the size of the gap in the joint.
Image

-Using a wet finger, press the ball of GS softly into the gap.
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-Again using a wet finger, sweep the excess GS around the edges of the joint until it wraps around to the back of the arm.
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-Add a dip to the armpit using a sculpting tool.
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-Again using a wet finger, sweep the GS at it’s edges until it smoothly blends with the models form. If this doesn’t work, just add strips of flattened GS where needed to give the impression of musculature.

Hands and Feet:
-Roll 4 small balls of GS.
-1 for the palm of each hand and 2 for the sole of the raised foot.
-Gently press the GS balls onto the appropriate bits.
Image
Image

Back and Waist:
-Roll out a long strip of GS and press it firmly into the waist of the model.
-Again using a wet finger sweep the GS until smooth with model.
Image
Dynamic Tongue:
-Roll out a long strip of GS and cut of the end.
-The length is entirely up to you.
-Cut most of the plastic tongue out of the models mouth.
-Use your modeling tool to insert the GS tongue.
-This will take plenty of practice.
-Use the modeling tool to reform the GS where it meets the model. You want a smooth transition.
Image

-Press lightly at the back center of the tongue using a wet hobby knife. This will give the tongue a well defined crease.
-Position the tongue using any tool that allows you the greatest ease. It may help to wet it first. Other wise the GS will stick to the tool.
Image

-Here is a bottom view of your work so far:
Image
Note: After all that hard work you don’t want your model to roll on its side and smash the GS into some amorphous shape while it’s drying. I recommend using Sticky tack to prop up the model parts as the GS hardens.

Here is the final product:
Many of these techniques can be modified to provide a wide variety of poses.
I hope this article is helpful. If you have questions please let me know and I’ll do my best to answer them. :D
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Last edited by UnderBheit on Jun 18 2009 02:16, edited 1 time in total.

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ultralemming
Shas
Posts: 88

Re: Modeling Dynamic Poses

Post#2 » Jun 13 2009 09:52

Now, THAT is a cool plastic kroot conversion!

EDIT: D'oh! I meant to say plastic kroot hound conversion! :P

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Agentarrow
Fio'Vre
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Re: Modeling Dynamic Poses

Post#3 » Jun 14 2009 10:12

very nice *applause* I am inspired to do dynamic poses with something else next...

theunderking
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Re: Modeling Dynamic Poses

Post#4 » Jun 14 2009 10:21

I gotta agree, this is sexy work. Well as sexy as bird-men get.:P
5th Ed.
Tau 19:11:5
Eldar 5:2:1
Hail to ze king,baby!

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Tael
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Re: Modeling Dynamic Poses

Post#5 » Jun 14 2009 07:55

Superbly done and explained. I'll be moving this to a more appropriate place :)

~ Tael.

UnderBheit
Shas
Posts: 5

Re: Modeling Dynamic Poses

Post#6 » Jun 15 2009 12:21

Thank you.

UnderBheit
Shas
Posts: 5

Making Molds with Green Stuff

Post#7 » Jun 15 2009 12:29

How to Build a Master Shaper Headdress:
Image

Tools:
Image
• Green Stuff
• Super Sculpey Clay
• Modeling Tools
• Hobby Knife
• Hobby Clippers
• Drill
• Water Basin
• Tin Foil
• Kroot Sprue
• Deathwing Terminator Arm
Image
• 2 x Ravenwing Pole Banner
Part Code: 9947010119307
Price: $2.00
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Make sure the Kroot body is already fully assembled before you attempt to build the Headdress.
(Read my Dynamic Kroot Poses Article for inspiration.)

1)Before the Mold:

a. Trim the top end of one of the Banner Poles.
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b. Join the Banner Poles in a horseshoe shape using super glue or green stuff.
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c. Allow time to let the glue and/or green stuff set.

2) Making the Mold:

a. Warm up some Super Sculpey by compressing it in your hands.
b. Flatten the Super Scupley slightly and place it on some tin foil.
c. The tin foil is important because it will allow you to move the mold to the oven without deforming it.
d. Use one of your sculpting tools as a rolling pin and flatten the Super Sculpey evenly.
e. Press the horseshoe shaped Banner Pole shallowly into the Super Sculpey.
f. Press the blunt end of your hobby Knife into the Super Sculpey at the outer edges. These indentions will serve as mold guides for the final pressing.
Image

g. Delicately pry the Banner poles loose. Use tweezers at multiple points to draw it out.
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h. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees; Place the Super Sculpey along with its tin foil in the oven for 15 minutes.
I. Remove the Super Sculpey from the oven and allow it to cool completely.
j. Reinsert the banner Poles in the baked Super Sculpey.
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k. Warm up another handful of Super Sculpey and then lightly press it on to the Banner Poles. ***Do Not Press It Flat…Yet***
l. Lay down some new tin foil and set the soft side of the mold on it.
m. Now, press the baked mold into the soft Super Sculpey on the tin foil.
n. Again, gently pry the baked mold and Banner Poles away from the soft clay.
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o. Place the second half of the mold in the oven, again at 275 for 15 minutes.
p. Again, allow it to cool completely.
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3)Pressing the Headdress:

a. Prepare a basin of water.
b. Mix about an inch of Green Stuff and place it in the water basin.
c. Chill the mold in the refrigerator.
d. I usually just wet the mold with water, but it might be necessary to lightly grease both sides of the mold with a lubricant such as Vaseline or baby oil.
e. Sculpt the Green Stuff into a flattened horseshoe shape and place it on the mold.
f. Use the guides to line up the two molds and PRESS!
g. Pry the mold apart briskly.
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h. Delicately pry the headdress from the mold and then toss it in the water basin.
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I. It is very important to keep the headdress & the sculpting tools wet from here on out.
j. Use the Hobby Knife to cut the excess from the bottom of the headdress.
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4)Placing and Cleaning the Headdress:

a. Use the sculpting tool to place the headdress slightly in front of the Shaper’s head spines.
b. Prod the sides of the headdress until they are resting on the Shaper’s shoulders.
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c. Allow the headdress to harden.
d. Use the Hobby Clippers to clean the flash from ends of the feathers on the headdress.

5)Headdress Embellishments:

a. There are 5 decorations that need to be added to the headdress.
They include:
o 2 pairs of Deathwing feathers made from molds and Green Stuff.
o 1 Green Stuff Headband
o 2 Kroot gunstrap foxtails
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o 1 Kroot gunstrap foxtail made from molds and Green Stuff
ImageImage

o 2 Kroot gun wrap Knots
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b. The Knot and 2 Foxtails can simply be cut from the relevant parts.
c. The Green Stuff items can be made using a simple one part mold.
d. The one part mold in just a wad of Super Sculpey that has had the relevant bits pressed into it. Bake the Super Sculpey at 275 for 15 minutes, allow cooling time, and press the mold.
e. First, place the two Green Stuff feathers at the peak of the Headdress, above the Shaper’s face.
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f. Roll and flatten a short Head band and place it over the Shaper’s forehead.
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g. Make two indentions on either side of the headband and then place the knots into them.
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h. Superglue the 2 plastic foxtails below the knot like earings.
I. Lastly, place the Green Stuff foxtail at the center of the headband.
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j. Allow the headdress to harden.


Here is the finished product:

ImageImage

The Loincloth & Backpack

I started by cutting off the back portion of the GW Shaper's sash. You could also leave it on but it may change the mold a bit.
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Next, I took the sash and pressed it into the Super Sculpey as shown below:
ImageImage

After baking the Super Sculpey I pressed green stuff into the mold, pulled it out and trimmed it as previously described.

Lastly, I applied the new loincloth to the Shaper and added two Kroot gun knots, also as described above.

The backpack was made in a the exact same manner. The model which I molded was this Mordheim Dreg.

Image

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Militant.Jester
Shas'Ui
Shas'Ui
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Re: Making Molds with Green Stuff

Post#8 » Jun 15 2009 01:17

I did a similar thing to mass produce weapons for my Calypso militia. It's a much simpler process, but the results are not as good..maybe I can get some pics up tomorrow.

Anyways, very nice model and tutorial!
Ni neart go cur le cheile::Cadre Log Activating...

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SpartanTau
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Re: [GUIDE] Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)

Post#9 » Jun 15 2009 04:12

UnderBheit :
I merged your two posts together here just to keep these tutorials from vanishing. If you have any more, just post them right here as a reply. This is already a great resource for Kroot modeling, and I'd really enjoy watching this evolve to include more.

Keep up the good work!
- Shas'Vre SpartanTau
ON EXTENDED LEAVE

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Eiglepulper
Shas'O
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Re: [GUIDE] Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)

Post#10 » Jun 15 2009 06:55

Excellent tutorial, UnderBheit. Thank you for posting it here.

I don't normally *ever* consider taking a Shaper in my Kroot units due to his cost, but I would certainly reconsider that position if I had a Shaper like yours - purely for the "Look at this model!" kudos.

E.

UnderBheit
Shas
Posts: 5

Re: [GUIDE] Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)

Post#11 » Jun 18 2009 02:18

Thanks for the compliments. I will add more as the ideas come to me.

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Agentarrow
Fio'Vre
Fio'Vre
Posts: 1618

Re: [GUIDE] Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)

Post#12 » Jun 18 2009 12:50

what about something cool to do to a krootox or hounds?

I know working with metal models can be a pain but I'd love to see what you can come up with. Maybe a tutorial on how to make plastic counts-as knarloc riders?

UnderBheit
Shas
Posts: 5

Re: [GUIDE] Modeling Dynamic Poses (Kroot)

Post#13 » Jun 22 2009 04:27

I absolutely hate GW's Krootox and Kroot Hounds. I use great Knarlocs and Knarloc Riders in my army to avoid the Krootoxen. I have about 6 kroot hounds which I was given, because I will never pay GW $13.25 for two ugly 6 point miniatures. It's terrible.

:eek: raw nerve.

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