Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 6/2/14]

Post long term projects you have devised for your Tau or other hobby projects.
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Revenant
Shas
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 11/30/2012]

Post#37 » Dec 01 2012 01:43

Thanks all!

@Kiblams: Yeah, they must have taken my idea! ;) I should probably find that line and finish it sometime..

@Elliott: A lot of the results comes with time and experience. That being said, knowing proper techniques can be very helpful to get better results in less time.

Paints:
Citadel is fine when starting out as it has good coverage and is a bit faster since you can take from the pot. Vallejo comes in dropper bottles, so you need to work from a palette, but can get exact color matches and wont ruin your brushed from accidentally dipping it too deep into a paint. Also they don't dry out like Citadel tends to do, which is a big plus in my book. At the time I used citadel colors for this army.

My Army colors:
Prime black
Airbrushed Mechrite Red
Blood Red
Red Wash
highlights in an orange/red mix

Cloth and terrain:
Iyanden Dark Sun
highlighted with bleached bone

Black/oranges:
Machurius solar orange
I used it watered down to fill in the weapon lines.

Whites:
leather brown
Bleached Bone watered down 1 or 2 layers
White watered down layers. I recommend the Vallejo Model Air White. it is meant for airbrushes so it is pre-thinned, so you can apply it quickly without getting that chalky effect that can happen with whites.

Airbrush:
I do use an airbrush for my vehicles and also for priming and base coating all of my units. I have not used it much for shading on infantry or suits. Starting from a color instead of black or white primer can be a great boon, and is something I like to do for my friends to motivate them to paint their army.
I learned on a cheap $50 Aztec airbrush, and eventually upgraded to a Badger Renegade Velocity and a compressor. It has a learning curve, mostly around the mixing of paint to the proper level, and cleaning.

The camo stripes are freehand, built up over a few coats. I tend to go back and forth with red and black, until I have smoothed out my edge. I also use a brighter red to do this so I don't have to match the specific gradient of red. You could easily replicate this with painters tape as a masking, but I wanted mine to be on a curve. If you use painters tape, don't water down your paints, or airbrush for best results. Watered down paint will seep into the tape and make a mess of the straight line.

In terms of crisp paint, taking your time with watered down layers will bring out colors and give you the ability to fix mistakes as you layer. The downside is the more layers you add, the longer it takes. On a lot of this army I did not do much layering, but I did keep my paints thinned. I use about 50/50 paint to water.
Every time I pick up some more paint I always use the brush on some scrap or my thumbnail before I apply it to the mini. Especially when you have watered down paint, applying too much can flood the whole thing. You want to be applying just the right amount.

Brush:
You should ideally have a few brushes, each for a different use. A flat brush for drybrushing, round brushes, a detail brush if you want, a brush for taking paint out of a paint pot.
90% of my painting is with a Round 0 or 00 brush. I even do most of my detail with it. I find that smaller is not necessarily better, it is all about how well it keeps a point and how much paint it can hold in the middle. This is effected by brush quality and also how well you treat the brush.
In terms of quality, I use Kolinsky Sable brushes and will never go back to the craft store aisle brands. I did use(and abuse) cheaper brushes for a very long time. Starting out they can be fine, just make sure to check the brush with the cap off to make sure the point looks acceptable.

Cheap brushes can last if you take care of them, and expensive brushes can die just as quick if you don't.
Keep paint from drying on the brush by regularly washing it every hour or so.
Do not let paint get up where the bristles meet the metal (ferrule). Dried paint there will cause your brush to splay out and be useless for detail.
Getting a brush cleaner soap can also revitalize older brushes. I use The Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver and it works wonders.

Wet Palette:
A wet palette can be as simple as a plate with some soaked napkins and a piece of wax paper on top. The idea is you can put paint out onto the wax paper, and it will be kept from drying by the water below. This means you can work longer from a mixed paint, and also provides a good place to thin your paints. Some real palettes can be sealed and keep the paint good a few days, but I have not had much luck with commercial palettes. My best palette ever was a Flames of War plastic plastic blister package along with the foam that came in it as the palette sponge.

Light! I almost forgot light, but it is very important to be painting in good light! I bought two OTT lite desk lamps with natural daylight bulbs, and they go wherever I go to paint.

Hope some of this helps, and let me know if you have any other questions!

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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 11/30/2012]

Post#38 » Dec 02 2012 01:44

Tetras and Ra'lai have been cleaned and assembled. I spent a good amount of time magnetizing the suit, it will be compatible with some other hazard suits for many different combinations as can be seen below. I applied them at joints to make the model more positionable as well, relying on larger magnets than I normally use to keep them from moving.
I wish they would offer all the weapon options with the hazard suits, paying for each version as a new suit is a bit much. That said, the suit looks great and I can't wait to paint it and the others!

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Revenant
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 12/2/2012]

Post#39 » Aug 19 2013 10:46

Well, my original WIP post was devoured before I could save it, so I will section it out when I can bring myself to rewrite it. In the meantime here are some more pictures from the finished Riptide entry for the contest, and WIP pictures can be seen in my Photobucket gallery.

This was great fun to work on, but also a huge time investment and a lesson in extreme patience. I dedicated a month and a half of my hobby time to complete it, and was working right up to the day of submission to get it done. It has around 20 LED's powered off of a 9V nestled into the terrain below. It is also sporting 3 switches for independently lighting up thrusters, shield, and/or gun. The gun is mounted with a quick disconnect so that it can be swapped out and light up either main gun.

Overall I am happy with how it turned out, though there were a few spots that could be done much better. Painting in particular was rather rushed over two days. Some of my seam lines were poorly covered, something which irks me to no end after all the work I put into it. I also badly messed up the ball joint gluing and have some rather unsightly looking metal. These were all errors of project fatigue at portions of the build well past 100 hours into it and not yet painted. I cut corners just to finish it. Ah well, live and learn!

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Nevar
Shas'Vre
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#40 » Aug 20 2013 04:05

Outstanding everything.

Here on the internet your reds look very close to the 'Enclave' reds. I am going to be painting a red/maroon suit force here soon for the Farsight Supplement. What are your color mixes? Did you already list them and I missed them? Are you willing to share your secret?

I can never seem to get the right red that I am looking for, and you seem to have nailed it easily.

Also, your Riptide is outstanding and I have nothing but compliments.


P.S. What is the materials you are using to make the wreckage molds for your vehicles. I was thinking about doing the same for my vehicles and suits. Nothing would be cooler than replacing XV-8 models with scattered debris or ruined hulks after they are killed. Even drones for that matter. The price for purchasing two of everything just to have fun casualty markers has always just been prohibitive.

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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#41 » Aug 20 2013 08:34

Thanks! It is nice to come back to my Tau, even if I am not too interested in playing 40k at the moment. The Riptide was a welcome distraction from all my other projects.

I would say my red is probably a bit brighter than a traditional Farsight red, though it does get a bit darker on my vehicles and riptide.
Originally what I have used was:
Black Prime
Mechrite Red
a layer or two of Mechrite and Blood Red mixed
Blood Red
Blood red and orange mix highlights.
1 or 2 layers of Baal red wash, kept thin and even rather than a heavy wash.

Infantry and suits were all hand painted, vehicles airbrushed. The Riptide was also airbrushed for the basic coats, though I am using different paints:
Vallejo extra opaque heavy red instead of mechrite, they are close, with mechrite having perhaps a bit more purple tone.
Vallejo bloody red instead of GW blood red. The Vallejo is not as bright red as the GW until you layer it.
I am still using the GW equivalent of baal red wash.


Wreckage:

The wreckage is very cheap and easy to make! You won't get exact replica's or anything with any underhang, but it works fine for secondary scenery. I've been recently making custom wreck markers for my cryx and gator Warmahordes armies, and its a nice little feature to have.

You will need an unpainted model, some playdoh, a tupperware container of approximate width of the wreckage size you want, and some plaster. I use a gypsum called hydrostone already for my Hirst Arts molds so I had that handy, but I think plaster of paris will work too. If it is too brittle, you may need a dental plaster like hydrocal, merlins magic, hydrostone, or Excalibur.

Fill the tupperware with playdoh leaving a bit of a bowl shape. Push in the model at an angle you think would present an interesting wreckage pile, and then carefully pull it back out in the opposite direction. If the model is in pieces you can push one part, then separately push something like a hand or thruster in a different angle, but you won't be able to make anything that is undercut very much. You can see on my devilfish I added antenna bits afterwards, as these would never work. You can also be creative with adding playdoh back in after the model is removed. On my second exploded devilfish I added a big bunch right where the troop compartment would be, and when it poured that spot looks like it was ripped open.

Mix up some plaster with water until it is the correct consistency (usually like a cream/milk) and pour it into your playdoh mold. It should set in a half hour.

Pull the plaster out.
Use an old toothbrush to scrub the extra playdoh off, rinsing it with warm water. The playdoh will stain it a bit, but its no harm. This is my favorite part!

Let it set for a few hours to dry out the water. Plaster is porous and will dry out paint that you apply directly, making it difficult to paint if you do not prime it. Base it as normal, and consider gluing it to an mdf board or something below to give it stability. If dropped or struck it will crack pretty easily. It will also probably chip over the course of its life, I usually just touch these up with a black wash so they are not noticeable.

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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#42 » Aug 20 2013 08:52

That all sounds outstanding.

I am not too worried about much overhang detail or the like as it's only for wreckage of suits and drones (My army has 22 with drones as my only other models). I don't think there will be much issue with brittleness as they will be small 40mm sized casualties.

As to your red, it looks pretty much like what I was going for, maybe a bit more of a maroon tint but as long as it comes out a nice solid dark red than it's more than good enough for my tastes.

Your models and painting is outstanding, thanks for sharing your work. I looked at your photo bucket a bit and was especially struck by your Blind Water effects.

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Revenant
Shas
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#43 » Aug 20 2013 10:46

When secured to bases or tokens they should be fine. Its the terrain that suffers a bit more wear and tear.

Thanks for checking my other work out! My Blindwater gators are my current project for a warmachine/hordes league. I've been working on them for the last half year or so, minus the time for the Riptide. I only have one more wave to paint before I have filled out my display board and call them finished. Until they give me more gators to buy and paint, that is..

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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#44 » Aug 20 2013 12:36

I particularly like the ambushers who you modeled coming out of the water by having them half in the base and such. The water effects are also just spot on.

Either way awesome. Another question, any better pics of the Riptide's pilot? I find it a cool idea to have him in there, and I might venture to attempt it as well since my Riptide will be the center piece for my Enclave. I plan on the Riptide being the Shas'O fluff wise, and the pilot being modeled just adds a certain amount of character.

LED installation is one of those things I find fascinating but not something I feel I am up to tackle. Electricity and I don't have an amiable relationship.

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Revenant
Shas
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#45 » Aug 20 2013 01:03

The ambushers were pretty easy to accomplish! The base rework took more time than the model posing.. I would like to add in some water splashes for them once I settle on a good method for it.

I have some photos in my upcoming WIP post which will include the pilot and cockpit conversion. I can't see my photobucket photos from work, but there is a picture or two in the Tau gallery I posted previously if you want to look through. I just took a tetra pilot and shifted his arms down to fit the reclined position I have my cockpit chair in (partially just due to space limitations.)

The LED's take a bit of getting used to, but I have found the soldering and wire/LED placement to be the biggest hurdles to learn. There are plenty of packages that will get you LED's with resistors, battery packs, and switches that just need a bit of soldering together. A few websites to figure out currents and serial vs parallel circuits and you can have something working in no time.

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Nevar
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#46 » Aug 21 2013 01:29

It's more along the lines of me shocking the crap out of my self. :(

I work on Airsoft Rifles and they also have power lines and LiPo batteries and they love to shock my hands numb.

I appreciate your help with the red colors, and I might come back to you later to duplicate your water effects for another project in the future.

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Revenant
Shas
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 8/19/13]

Post#47 » May 22 2014 10:59

Long time no see folks! I have finally come around to writing out my Riptide conversion steps from last year's competition.
The first half is up on my blog here:
http://revenantautumn.blogspot.com/2014 ... art-1.html

When I've completed the second post I will try to make a copy for this forum. My source pictures are way bigger than ATT likes, and there is no BBcode here for dynamic re-sizing. That means manually re-sizing copies and reallocating the picture locations.

In the meantime, take a look if you are interested!

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Null
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 5/22/14]

Post#48 » May 22 2014 11:51

Hey Revenant;

Wow! Just...wow! Beautiful job on the riptide, I mean truly beautiful job!

I love the way you incorporated the cockpit into the model; it was executed perfectly IMHO. The lighting effects look superb as well.

You Sir, are a master

- null

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Revenant
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 5/22/14]

Post#49 » May 22 2014 03:28

Thank you kindly! It was a fun but strenuous project for sure.

I'm actually working out the design for a cockpit and hatch enhancement kit to make something similar to what I did here. Just have to get through a few other projects first..

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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 6/2/14]

Post#50 » Jun 02 2014 10:26

My second half of my LED Riptide log is up:
http://revenantautumn.blogspot.com/2014/05/led-riptide-part-2.html

If you have any questions feel free to ask!

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Null
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 6/2/14]

Post#51 » Jun 05 2014 01:22

Hey Revenant

Nice walk through! I'm gonna try something similar out on a D'fish (Don't a riptide at the moment :sad: ) I found your blog very easy to follow, It gives me hope that I can do something like that!

Question; What brand/supplier do you use for your mold-making and resin? I'm planning on trying to cast a few things.

Thanks

- null

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Revenant
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Re: Cadre Revenant Autumn [Updated 6/2/14]

Post#52 » Jun 06 2014 12:24

I'm glad it is helpful, Null. I started out with my first LED's on my Devilfish/Hammerhead as well. You can see the much smaller log in a previous post in this thread of how I did that.

I use Smooth On Mold Max 30 for my molds. It was expensive to buy a full can, but that has last me for a few years of sporadic molds. It does get bubbles if you don't have a vacuum chamber to degass it though, so you will lose some details. An alternative is Oomoo, which is supposed to be better results without the prep.

I use a lot of plaster as the casted material when I can, as it is cheap, quick, and doesn't hurt the mold like resins will. I use a hydrocal gypsum picked up from a construction store.
I rarely use Smooth Cast urethane plastic for solid model bits.

For clear casts I pick up epoxy resin from the craft store. Its mixed 1 to 1 which makes it easy to work with quickly. Bubbles can be a pain, but if you go slow you can reduce the amount. Also having the Tvac helps this immensely as well. It can be a bit rubbery when complete, but I prefer working with it compared to the stinky polyester resin that is also available at craft stores (the big tin can with tiny amount of catalyst).

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